This remarkable white includes 9% Sémillon, the whole aged in half French oak and half stainless steel. Invitingly floral, with an effusive landscape of citrus, pear and vanilla cookie. Focused, bright and opulently layered, it has structure and grace that last for days.

The only wine I was able to taste from this estate, whose winemaker is Heidi Barrett, the 2018 Sauvignon Blanc Asatsuyu is nevertheless impressive, showing perfumed pineapple, white grapefruit, and crushed rock-like aromas and flavors, medium body, bright acidity, and a clean, crisp finish. Drink it over the coming year or two.