The 2018 Ontogeny should be up there with the 2017 and has lots of cassis and currant fruits as well as plenty of graphite, tapenade, salted chocolate, and leafy herbs. It's a rich, full-bodied, deep, sexy beasty.

Ontogeny is a barrel-selection blend of Bevan's vineyard sources: Tench, Sugarloaf, Harbison, Wildfoote, Saunders and Sage Ridge. The varieties include: Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot and Merlot. Deep garnet-purple in color, the 2018 Ontogeny Proprietary Red Wine comes barreling out of the glass with intensely fruity notes of crème de cassis, black cherry preserves and stewed plums plus a savory undercurrent of grilled meats, sautéed herbs and Indian spices. The palate is full-bodied, rich and velvety, delivering impactful black fruit preserves with loads of earthy nuances, finishing long with a spicy kick. 3,952 cases were made.

The 2018 Ontogeny is fabulous. Once again, Russell Bevan opted to serve his entry-level wine in the middle of the tasting. If anything, that just shows how compelling the Ontogeny bottling is. Crushed raspberry, mint, blood orange and floral notes confer freshness and energy. Don't miss it.