A lovely nose of fresh herbs and ground, peppery spice with fresh flowers, lime leaf and baked citrus. Full-bodied and speckled with white pepper and honeysuckle. Driving and well-balanced acidity is at the center of the palate and makes it hum with fruitful intensity. Such a pleasure to drink. Truly superb. Drink or hold.

A barrel sample, the 2019 Chardonnay Eastside sails out of the glass with zesty citrus scents of lemons, kaffir lime leaves and mandarin peel with an underlying jasmine perfume and a waft of blanched almonds. The palate is tightly wound and very finely knit, delivering loads of nuanced layers and a crisp backbone, finishing long and steely. Eastside is a warmer site in Russian River, composed of very rocky, gravelly soils, forcing the vines to really struggle. It is planted to Montrachet clone. Aubert usually harvests this second, after Sugar Shack.

The 2019 Chardonnay Eastside Vineyard is a wild, exotic wine. A rush of tropical passion fruit, mint, lemon confit, white pepper and jasmine captivates the senses. Deep and resonant, the 2019 is wonderfully dynamic right out of the gate. The intensity here is just off the charts. This is one the most extroverted, dense wines in the range of 2019 Chardonnays from Mark Aubert.