By contrast, the 2017 Brunello Di Montalcino Riserva Duelecci Ovest is warming with sweet tobacco, cherry liqueur, balsamic herbs, and baked earth. It is medium-bodied but has more intensity and power driving throughout, with leather, forest herbs, tea leaf, and dried cranberry. Drink 2025-2038.

Usually part of a pair of Riservas (Duelecci Est and Duelecci Ovest) released from this estate, this hot-vintage expression shows lots of ripe fruit, baked blackberry and thick concentration. The Tenuta di Sesta 2017 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Duelecci Ovest does not have the depth or elegance of a cooler-vintage expression, and the wine compensates with extra richness and heavy fruit. There is a very mild point of astringency on the close that you commonly find across this vintage. Fruit comes from a 1.5-hectare site with deep soils rich in limestone, iron and micro elements.

The 2017 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Duelecci Ovest wafts up with a darkly floral bouquet, showing crushed plums, rubbed sage and dusty dried flowers. It's soft and round upon entry, with a burst of inner sweetness that gives way to a tension-building mix of tart wild berries and balsamic spice. The 2017 sizzles through the finale, a combination of residual acids and searing tannins, but drops off surprisingly fast.