A linear and very fine white with lemon pie, nougat, almond, and flint. Medium-bodied, refined and beautiful. Dried lemon and hints of honey. Pretty and delicious. Drink now or hold.

Aubert's 2020 Chardonnay Powder House-from a Forestville vineyard planted in 2015 to a mix of Hyde Old Wente and Mount Eden selections-comes across as a bit more crisp, focused and linear than many of the other wines here. Melon, yellow plum and lime notes appear upon the nose, while the full-bodied palate is concentrated, fresh and zesty. It's an excellent wine, maybe a bit more suited for a food pairing (delicate white fish or poultry dishes) than the more bombastic offerings.