Roederer's 2014 Brut Vintage is beautiful, offering up aromas of pear, mirabelle plum, red berries, warm biscuits and smoke. Full-bodied, layered and elegantly muscular, it's seamless and complete, with terrific mid-palate depth and amplitude. Framed by bright acids and enlivened by a pinpoint mousse, it concludes with a penetrating finish. The blend is 70% Pinot Noir, emphasizing Verzy, and pressure is a touch higher than in its more ethereal Blanc de Blancs counterpart. As I wrote of its 2013 predecessor, this is a wine that puts many prestige cuvées to shame.

A crisp and well-cut Champagne, delivering a strong mineral presence. There's a chalky underpinning to the tightly-meshed flavors of crunchy pear, raspberry, pickled ginger and pink grapefruit zest. Fine and lightly creamy in texture, with a mouthwatering finish that echoes the minerality. Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. Best from 2022 through 2030.