Roederer's newly released 2013 Brut Vintage is showing brilliantly, unwinding in the glass with a youthfully reserved but incipiently complex bouquet of crisp yellow orchard fruit, citrus zest, fresh bread and honeycomb. Medium to full-bodied, deep and concentrated, this is a tightly coiled, elegantly muscular Champagne, its layered core of fruit built around an incisive spine of acidity. Seamless and complete, this is an over-performing vintage that puts many prestige cuvées to shame. Built to age, it will reward patience.

A polished Champagne, sleek and mouthwatering, with a lovely, mineral-laced underpinning to the finely knit flavors of star fruit, anise, crushed raspberry and slivered almond, this is fresh and focused, with a pleasing, creamy viscosity to the racy finish. Drink now through 2030. Tasted twice, with consistent notes.

While this vintage wine is still too young, it obviously has potential. The bright, tangy texture, minerality and the pure line of white fruits all point to a future of rich maturity. Wait to drink this wine until 2023.